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March 24, 2022



I enjoy drinking, in Latin America, Latin American beer. Must be an "atmosphere" thing: in all such countries, the brews themselves are merely OK. Never great, but never bad either. Poured into a glass and sipped at a table outdoors - those details are important - they do communicate a mannered, constructive leisure, as opposed to a bored, loafing one.

Last week I bicycled past a Mexican brewery. To my knowledge, no south-of-the-border beer is called Coahuila, so I presume the output gets whatever labels have been paid for by various distributors. The installation also had either smokestacks or distillation columns, neither required for making beer as far as I know. I should find all this off-putting, but I just don't. A self-termed "beer company" on a railway siding in a Mexican desert is a million miles from both a German winter and an English spring, but the industrial-scale facilitation of good living is, still, the facilitation of good living. It seems, in such a country, an achievement (as a Mexican microbrewery would seem an absurd pose).


I shall attempt a Mexican beer fantasy this summer (perhaps after one of my infrequent cycling jaunts along the local bike path). I just need a think of a suitable role for myself. All I can find near me are various products of Grupo Modelo but I'm sure a thorough search of specialist liquor stores might uncover something that evokes the required South American pre-siesta mood.

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